Matthew Nugent | Why ‘jammy’ wines are making a comeback

At a recent tasting I overheard a wine described as being “jammy”.

It has been years, a decade or more, since I first heard that descriptor used, and one that, unconsciously, I have rarely employed myself in recent years.There is something comforting in describing a wine as being “jammy”.

For me it has never meant that the wine, always reds, were overly sweet. Instead, the ripeness of the fruit, developed over months under the sun, creates the fruits’ natural sugars, glucose, and fructose.

But part of what creates a jam-like impression is a little residual sugar, or slightly higher alcohol levels, which adds to their body and can deliver that fruit preserve note on the palate.

The grape varieties I often put in this category include Grenache, Shiraz, Gamay, and Merlot. All usually grown in hotter climates.

When I began to discover the joys of wine, Australia was the place for these fruit bombs, many with a little of that residual sugar.

They appealed to new wine lovers. They were unfussy, very approachable, and with silky tannins. And while fruit bombs are no longer as popular as they were, I still like the odd bottle of concentrated red fruit, with a touch of residual sugar to enjoy at a barbecue.

I still find these wines comforting, like finding a long-lost old friend.

Hermanos Hernaiz, "El Jardin de la Emperatriz", 2022 - (Abv 14%)

Rioja, Crianza 

"This is a sumptuous young red Crianza, from Rioja Alta, that’s drinking particularly well. Crafted by brothers Eduardo and Víctor Hernáiz, this is a special wine. Created with fruit from historic, limited-production plots that meet strict quality standards, the wine has been granted Viñedo Singular certification. A ruby colour, the nose is bursting with intense aromas of ripe plums and blackberry fruit. The palate is soft and well-structured with a wonderful fusion of ripe black fruits, spice, a wisp of smoke, and supple tannins."

Domaine Ricardelle de Lautrec, Pinot Noir, "Nature", 2023

Vin de France

"Last week I discovered a wonderful Pet Nat Chardonnay from winemaker Lionel Ricardelle’s biodynamic vineyards at Coursan in the Languedoc, France. And in the last few days the pleasure of quaffing his incredible fresh and silky Pinot was all mine. A cherry red colour in the glass, it has heady aromatics of soft red and black summer fruits. The palate is smooth, fresh and juicy, with excellent balance, purity and soft fruit notes. Medium finish."