Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - that's the grape and the region in one - is a broad church and while the simplest ones are fun and fruity, it's worth seeking out one that packs a bit of a punch. Feuduccio Fonte Venna d'Abruzzo 2019 is the fruit, the whole fruit and nothing but the fruit.
Unoaked, it's light and fresh but robust enough for big flavours and the lively acidity will cut richness. This is my go-to wine with tagliatelle and a slow cooked bolognese ragu that I like to make with beef cheeks. As my dear old friend Paolo Tullio used to say, "it's a meat sauce with a little tomato, not a tomato sauce with a little meat".
Tom Doorley, The Sunday Times, 21st of May 2023.