Heretat Montrubí HMR White Xarel.lo, Penedès, Spain 2019
"Chablis isn’t the only French dry white wine style where the emphasis is on texture and feel rather than on any bountiful, leap-out-glass flavour. In their different ways, the subtly saline and yeasty, bone-dry wines of Muscadet from out west in the Loire estuary (look out for Domaine de l’Ecu or Domaine Luneau-Papin), and the delicately floral spring meltwater freshness of the wines made from jacquère in Savoie (Domaine l’Idylle and Gilles Berlioz) are also both capable of playing the discreet accompanying role to, respectively, classic moules marinières and sushi. A certain subtlety of aroma mixed with a truly distinctive texture of chalk and minerals also marks out the increasingly excellent still white wines made from xarel.lo in Catalan cava country, in Penedès. [...] while HMR brings a whisper of white flowers, dill and pears to its super-refreshing palate."