Shane Golden - View from the vineyard: August

Natural Wine, Old wine in new bottles

Shane Golden, Manager of Whelehans Wines

Back in the early 90s, American comedian Bill Hicks had a running joke about the pitfalls of watching too much TV News. Watch it long enough and you would think that the rapture is at hand. Then, take the time to look out your front window, marvel at Nature’s chorus and wonder where all this is happening. In a similar vein, spend enough time online reading the wine news and you’ll be forgiven for thinking that adherents of natural wine are pitchfork-armed and looking to defenestrate the figure-head of the local Chateau. Back in the real world, some people like natural wine, many others don’t. The irony that I am now about to contribute to all this hullabaloo is not lost on me.

I’ve mentioned in this column before that the idea of terroir-driven wines, wines that are crafted to reflect the land rather than made to soothe an internationally-styled palate, are in some way a response to globalization. This drive towards a global monoculture, is crudely reflected in a certain sameness on the global high street. Fans of natural wines can argue that their terroir-first principle reaches its zenith here and is an antidote to some of the ills of modern life. The producer of natural wine sees themselves more as wine-grower than wine-maker. It is true that this approach to winemaking is closest in execution to the first wine made and gives further proof to the idea that the more things change, the more they stay the same.

While tales of French bureaucracy are legion, when it comes to defining natural wine they may have got it right in terms of what it is and isn’t with the “Vin Natural Charter of Commitment”. While this has been crafted by a private organization it is a significant step in ratification before becoming official. Caveat emptor, any bottle of wine labelling itself as natural outside of France though has to be taken at face value. With no rigid national or international definition comes a variety of interpretations but two principles are common to all. Firstly, human intervention is kept at an absolute minimum both in the winery and in the field. Secondly, fermentation needs to happen spontaneously from whatever yeast is wild rather than manufactured. Both of these processes give rise to wines of varied and distinct character and have helped dust off some cobwebs around the industry’s image.

There is an unpredictability that comes with natural wine and a sense of wild-west freedom. Depending on where you stand, this is either a positive or negative. Yeast will impart its own specific flavours. Due to this, winemakers of more conventional wines tend to use controlled and specific yeasts during fermentation.  Allowing the yeast to materialize spontaneously is one factor that gives rise to significant vintage variation which may not always be in accordance with the preferred house style.

Natural wine may have been the first type of wine made but its modern incarnation seems to have been incubated in the Beaujolais region, just south of Burgundy. Marketed as a type of restoration, the principles are both nobel and straightforward. Also labeled low- or no-intervention, it seeks to create an authentic and pure wine free from artificial herbicides and pesticides. The fact that Beaujolais’ star in the firmament of wine continues to rise is in no small part thanks to the execution of these principles.

Natural wine’s most well known manifestation is in the form of Pet-Nat. With a single fermentation happening in bottle, it is the oldest method of producing sparkling wine. Light, effervescent, casual, lower-alcohol and distinctive. There is a lot to appreciate here.

No discussion here is complete without mentioning sulphites. Since the phrase “Contains Sulphites”  has been added to wine labels many people believe that this is what has been causing their hangovers. I’m no Doctor but my view on this is straight-forward, alcohol is a toxin and sulphites are an additive. In its deliberate addition to wine, sulphites prolong shelf life, help control oxidation and mitigate against unwanted microbiological activity that may lead to faults. They are customary in the production of more conventional wines.

In the negative, their addition can restrain some of the fruit purity, aromatics and appearance of wines which will further mask the wine’s sense of place. I’m only scratching the surface here as everyone and their dog have an opinion about sulphites and their efficacy.

Natural wine presents an intriguing choice for the consumer. We all have a positive bias for that which is natural but taste isn’t a moral choice. Don’t believe the hype, the proof is on the palate.

Wine of the Month

GianniTessari ‘ Rebellis ‘ Veneto Bianco IGT, 2022

Tasting Notes: An intriguing wine for a number of reasons. Solaris is one of what’s known as PIWI grapes. These are specific crossings of American, European and Asian varieties that are naturally fungus-resistant offering a critical shield in the vineyard for winegrowers.  Orange wines are those that are made from white grapes that have their skins left on during fermentations. The Orange in the name refers to the color rather than flavor but on the palate you get  a mix of citrus, floral and spice tones with some oxidative notes.  Complex, fascinating and fabulous with Indian food.

• Hand-harvested
• Certified Organic

Grape: 100% Solaris

Region: Veneto, Italy

ABV: 13%

Ageing: 12 Months in terracotta amphorae