John Wilson | Les Rouillères 2023, Frédéric Mabileau, Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Get on trend with this lighter red wine from the Loire

"I may be jumping the gun a little but after all that rain, I need the promise of spring and, as I write, the sun has made a welcome reappearance. I tend to drink lighter red wines throughout the year, but they are even more welcome in brighter weather.

Gamay, pinot noir and cabernet franc are three of my favourite grapes, so it is not surprising that I have always been a huge fan of the red wines of the Loire. However, I realise that I may be in a minority. This could possibly be because they are light in colour and alcohol and could sometimes be a little herbaceous in the past, making them easier to ignore. Yet the rise in temperature due to climate change and our growing preference for lighter wines mean that these wines should now be right on trend.

Pinot noir from the Loire certainly seems to have benefited a little from global warming. Most examples are now deliciously ripe and fruity and offer a real alternative to red Burgundy. Sancerre produces the best-known pinot noir, but other areas can compete and are often less expensive.

Cabernet franc plays a supporting role in most great Bordeaux, particularly on the Right Bank. In the Loire, it produces lighter ethereal wines with real elegance and fresh red summer fruits. The better wines age wonderfully too. I adore them. Chinon, Anjou, Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Touraine, Bourgueil, and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil all produce high-quality wines."

Les Rouillères 2023, Frédéric Mabileau, Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

"Textbook cabernet franc. Light, juicy and moreish with snappy red cherry fruits and a light earthiness. Drink solo or with aubergines, grilled pork or salmon."

€25