Rich Pickings

"Altough the restaurant at Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown, is closed until March 2021, a Friday food market in the car park (10am-3pm) is providing customers with appetising consolation. Artisan cheeses, organic fruit and veg, Dexter beef, fresh fish and more can be picked up alongside exceptionally appealing wines. "We're lucky to have a huge amount of repeat business", says David Whelehan. "Once people cross the threshold they usually come back." One reason, I'd guess, is his unerring palate. The other is that 80 per cent of his wines are shipped directly, keeping retail prices keen. Besides the red Burgundy recommended below, my current frontrunners include Château de Fesles Anjou Chenin Sec (€19), a perfect winter white, and the richly rewarding L. Bénard Pitois Brut Réserve 1er Cru NV (€35). Minimum order six bottles, delivery free."

DOMAINE MICHEL NOËLLAT ET FILS CÔTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS, 2018

"Made from the fruit of old vines, this suave red Burgundy is the kind of wine you'd feel confident serving with almost any food at any time. Layers of earthy flavour keep it lively."

Mary Dowey, The Gloss Magazine - 06/11/2020